The walk begins on Daunt’s Square at Information Panel 1. Continue along Grand Parade as far as Bishop Lucey Park. Walk through Bishop Lucey Park to South Main Street and to Information Panel 2.
University Walk The walk begins on Daunt’s Square at Information Panel 1. Continue along Grand Parade as far as Bishop Lucey Park. Walk through Bishop Lucey Park to South Main Street and to Information Panel 2. Following the Siege of Cork in 1690, Christchurch was reconstructed in 1725 and became known for its leaning tower (removed in 1828), leading to the local saying, ‘As crooked as Christchurch tower’. An archaeological excavation took place at Christchurch in November-December 2009 as part of the most recent refurbishment works. A total of fifty-two burials were recorded and excavated. Two burials were excavated in the crypt, 13 burials were recorded in the trenches in and around the Apse and the remaining 37 burials were within the Vestry. South Main Street is one of the oldest streets in the City with some of these laneways dating back to the walled City of medieval Cork. Among the historic figures to walk here were the poet Edmund Spencer (who may also have been married at Christchurch), explorer Sir Walter Raleigh, and the controversial Oliver Cromwell. Turning onto Washington Street, you will note a wide boulevard that can accommodate large volumes of traffic. This was a deliberate design during the first decades of the nineteenth century, long after the old City walls had been dismantled. Travel north along South Main Street. Turn left onto Washington Street and continue to Information Panel 3. Before leaving the Courthouse, look at the flagstaff atop the dome. When the building caught fire in 1895, a crowd gathered outside and cheered as the flames reached the Union Jack flying atop the flagstaff. This event was described by British newspapers, and inspired Rudyard Kipling’s famous poem, ‘The English Flag’. Nearby, Hanover Street runs parallel to Washington Street. At the southern end of Hanover Street stood the Hive Irons Works Foundry, an important industrial manufacturer in the nineteenth century. Hanover Shoe Company, another well known local employer, eventually took over a section of the Hive premises, located on lands immediately west of Clarke’s Bridge, known as Queen’s Place. Continue along Washington Street as far as Information Panel 4 At one time, this was the main road from Cork City to County Kerry. As you walk towards the gates of University College Cork, note that the City trams also used to run
nineteenth century, sympathetic brass bands sometimes played concerts on this road to entertain political prisoners. Some new prisoners were accompanied from their homes to the Gaol gates by the bands, or accompanied home upon their release, which was typically a more joyous journey.
known as the Dairy Science building, it opened in 1928 and represented the development of links between the agricultural sector and the national University. To the right, stands the Lewis Glucksman Gallery. Passing the President’s Garden you will arrive in an open space in front of the Honan Chapel. The Chapel showcases exquisite Irish artisanship, including fine stone and woodwork, mosaic tiles, and Harry Clarke stained glass windows. Adjacent the Chapel, stands the Alfred O’Rahilly Building for the Humanities. This replaced Berkeley Hall, also known as the Honan Hostel, which housed generations of students in its day. In the early years, the area east of the main University Quadrangle was open and filled with diverse botanical garden specimens. As the student population has grown, new structures have been built to meet the University’s emerging needs. Continue along to the top of the Avenue and turn left where indicated by the fingerpost. Continue as far as Information Panel 6. Before leaving the Main Quadrangle, look atop the building’s eastern gable. The monument of St Finn Barr was designed by Cork’s famed stone sculptor Seamus Murphy. It replaced a statue of Queen Victoria, which was removed in the 1930’s owing to nationalist sentiments in the newly independent Ireland. The Queen Victoria Statue was put into storage, but its size and heavy weight proved difficult to accommodate. In 1946, College authorities chose to bury the statue in the President’s Garden, located in the open area between the Quadrangle and the Áras Na Mac Léinn student centre. The statue was exhumed in 1994, put on public exhibition, and viewed by Queen Elizabeth II during her 2011 visit to Cork. As you leave the Quadrangle, make sure to avoid the lawn! Continue via the path adjacent to the Main Quadrangle Building. Go through the Arch and turn left. Exit the grounds of University College Cork. Minding the traffic, take a closer look at the Seamus Murphy plaque on the old Cork County Gaol entrance and appreciate the modernist font used. Nearby you will also notice a much simpler (and unofficial) stone monument dedicated to John Joe Kavanagh. In 1940, he was shot dead as he attempted to tunnel into the Gaol to free Republican prisoners inside. This was one of many attempted escapes from the prison. Note the area above the Cork County Gaol entrance. Before the Gaol was demolished, cell windows were visible to pedestrians. When the Gaol operated, friends and relations often gathered here to shout messages to inmates. During the Land War in the late *
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Former Home of George Boole
Cross Gaol Bridge and continue as far as Information Panel 7
Former Whiskey Distillery & Bottling Plant
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Whilst on a visit to the City in 1833, world famous engineer Sir Marc Isambard Brunell was asked to design a bridge to provide access to the County Gaol from the newly developed Western Road. Although only in Cork for a day and a night, he presented plans for a bridge before his departure. His Gaol Bridge was opened in 1835, and still spans the south channel of the River Lee today. Continue as far as the junction with Western Road. Turn left and continue as far as the pedestrian crossing. Cross here and turn left. Take the first right into Ferry Walk. Continue as far as Information Panel 8 The lane in front of you is called Ferry Walk, a reminder of the ferry crossing the River Lee prior to the construction of Daly’s ‘shaky’ Bridge in 1926. This is the only suspension bridge in Cork. West along the Mardyke Walk, is the Mardyke Arena, an indoor student sports centre owned by University College Cork. Beyond it, lies the famed Mardyke athletic grounds. On major sporting occasions, hundreds of spectators unable or unwilling to buy a ticket, would pack the stadium exterior, climb trees, and line nearby bridges and fields across the river. Inside Fitzgerald’s Park, visitors will find well maintained gardens along with the Cork Public Museum. The Public Museum was incorporated into the home owned by brewer Charles Beamish, who originally owned the park grounds. A Seamus Murphy bust of Michael Collins, a founder of the modern Irish State, can be seen to the left of the Public Museum. Staring at Michael Collins is a statue of Tom Barry, an opponent of Collins in the Irish Civil War. The small building to the right of the Museum and near the park’s front gate is the ‘Lord Mayor’s Pavilion’, built in 1902 to receive dignitaries visiting the Cork Exhibition.
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Mercy Hospital
St Francis’ Church
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Fenn’s Quay
Cork Courthouse
The English Market
Sundays Well Boating & Tennis Club
Daly’s Bridge
City Library
Former Beamish & Crawford Brewery
County Cricket Grounds
Cork Public Museum
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Fitzgerald’s Park
Lewis Gluckman Gallery
Boer War Memorial
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St Fin Barre’s Cathedral
Alternative route for those with limited mobility Walk route
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Information Panel
University College Cork
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along here. The terminal for the Cork and Muskerry Light Railway, located to the south of the river channel, included cattle pens and sheds for engines, goods, and carriages. Queen Victoria also travelled this route, by carriage, during her 1849 visit to Ireland. During a brief stop along the Western Road, Queen Victoria watched a statue being unveiled atop the Main Quadrangle of the University named after her, Queen’s College Cork. Her view of the University remains as stunning today as it was when the University first opened.
Continue along Lancaster Quay/ Western Road as far as Information Panel 5, which is situated just inside the main gates to University College Cork As you enter the University campus, you will notice the large number of limestone buildings, which give the University its own distinctive architectural style. The original University was built on a limestone cliff overlooking the River Lee, which made the site attractive to planners. The stone enabled quick and inexpensive quarrying, while the site’s height was pleasing to the eye. The
University was bound on the west by the County Gaol, on the north by the River Lee, on the south by what is now College Road, and on the east, by the edge of the Duke of Devonshire’s property at Gill Abbey. Connaught Avenue, near Gill Abbey Street, is also the location of a Celtic cross memorial to the Boer War.
As you cross the footbridge and enter the University grounds, the Geography Building is located on your left. Originally
Continue along Mardyke Walk as far as Information Panel 9.
As you continue along the Walk, you will be replicating a Mardyke promenade, a favourite pastime of Cork residents for over a century. This was originally a raised embankment, built in 1719, that overlooked a marshland floodplain. The peace and beauty of this place was noted by writers William Thackery and James Joyce. As you travel across the River Lee, via the Mardyke Bridge, you will see a striking church, located on the hill. This is St Vincent’s Church. Located in the Sunday’s Well neighbourhood, the church was opened in 1856. It is a fine example of Cork stonework, with its red sandstone bordered by limestone. The Mission House adjoining St Vincent’s now houses the University’s Music Department. Travel along Slí Cumman na mBan/Banks of the Lee Walkway, crossing the River Lee at Mardyke Bridge. Continue as far as Information Panel 10. The Slí Cumman na mBan walkway, was opened in 2006, on the 90 th anniversary of the 1916 Easter Rising. It is named after Cumann na mBan, the Republican women’s organisation of the 1914-1923 period, whose members played an active and important role in the struggle for Irish independence. Follow the walkway, keeping the River Lee on your right. On your left can be seen stone remnants of the whiskey distillery that operated here from 1779 to 1920. It subsequently relocated to Midleton, and eventually merged with Jameson. Before you leave Slí Cumman na mBan note the large grey house to the left. It was the stately home of distiller Francis Wise, who ran the North Mall distillery after 1802. Crossing St. Vincent’s Bridge, notice its steel lattice girder formation which dates back to 1878. Directly in front of you lies a house, once owned by George Boole, an influential mathematician sometimes called, ‘the father of computer science’. The adjacent homes were built around 1770, and initially housed the City’s elite. Across the river lies a handsome street of Georgian homes, called The North Mall. A Franciscan friary was located there from 1244 until its suppression in 1540, and its ruins remained until 1836. The Franciscan Well Microbrewery on the North Mall recalls the friary holy well that was supposed to hold the power to cure illness. Cross the road and turn left. Continue as far as the junction with Grattan Street. Turn right, cross Henry Street and continue as far as the pedestrian crossing. Cross the road and continue as far as Information Panel 11.
Grattan Street was originally called Duncan Street, but was later renamed after the nineteenth century Irish parliamentary leader, Henry Grattan. Notice the former Society of Friends (Quaker) Meeting House. Quakerism arrived in Cork about 1655, just three years after its founding in Northern England. This building dates from 1834, but replaced previous meeting houses dating back to 1678. The community is associated with prominent Cork merchant family names such as Pike, Beale, Devonshire, Penrose, and Fenn. To return to the beginning of Cork Walks travel south along Grattan Street and take a left onto Liberty Street. At the junc- tion of Liberty Street with North and South Main Streets, take a left and an immediate right and continue along Castle Street. Turn right into Daunt’s Square.
Index Daunt’s Square ....................... H2 Adelaide Street ........................ G1 Bachelor’s Quay ....................... F1 Banks Of The Lee Walkway ..... D2 Bishop Lucey Park .................. H2 Boer War Memorial ................ D4 Castle Street .......................... G2 Christchurch .......................... G2 City Library ............................ H3 Clarks Bridge ........................ G3 College Road ........................ D4 Connaught Avenue .................. D4 Cork Courthouse ..................... G2 Cork Public Museum ............... B3 Cornmarket Street .................. H1 County Cricket Grounds ........... B3 Daly’s Bridge .......................... A3 Donovan’s Road ..................... C4 Dyke Parade ........................... E2 Fenns Quay ............................ F2 Ferry Walk ............................. A4 Fitzgerald’s Park ..................... A3 Former Beamish & Crawford Brewery ................................ G3 Former Home Of George Boole ....E1 Former Whiskey Distillery & Bottling Plant ................... G1 Gaol Bridge ............................ B4 Gaol Walk .............................. B4 Gilabbey Street ....................... E4 Grand Parade .......................... H2 Grattan Street .......................... F1 Grenville Place ...................... E2 Hanover Street ...................... G2 Henry Street .......................... F1 Kyle Street ............................. G1 Lancaster Quay ...................... D3 Lewis Glucksmann Gallery ....... C3 Liberty Street ......................... G2 Mardyke Bridge ....................... B2 Mardyke Walk ......................... B3 Mercy Hospital ...................... E2 Millerd Street .......................... F1 North Main Street .................... G1 North Mall .............................. F1 O’ Donovan Rossa Road ............ D3 Peter’s Street .......................... F2 Shandon Footbridge ................... H1 Sharman Crawford Street ........ F3 Sheares Street ......................... F2 Slí Cumann Na mBan ............. E2 South Main Street .................. G3
WELCOME to Cork Walks and in particular to this walk of the western area of the City. This is a self -guided walking tour and takes approximately an hour and a half to complete. There are three elements to this walk. This leaflet describes the walk and the sights along the way. It also has a detailed map. There are directional signs (green walking symbols) throughout the walk to help orient and guide you. 11 information panels are located at various interest points along the route. These feature short descriptions of places and events in these locations. Along the route there are many buildings of interest open to the public and which carry information leaflets. In addition the Tourist Office, on the Grand Parade, has further guides of the City and the greater Cork area. Please linger along the way, taking the time to go inside our churches, museums, parks and cafés. We hope you enjoy this Cork Walk. University Walk A city carries the imprint of the people and events that have shaped it over time. These stories never reveal themselves in a simple line: the old sits beside the new; the new re-interprets the old. A small detail can be as revealing as a large building. The University Walk traces the development of Cork from its medieval marshy roots, to the expansion of the City as a prosperous hub of industry and commerce. It emphasises the special bonds between ‘town and gown’, exploring associated institutional buildings and the centre of learning in the region, University College Cork (UCC). In addition this walk engages with the “Green” element of the City. The University Walk weaves it way through Bishop Lucey Park, the formal lawns of the UCC campus, and the gardens of Fitzgerald’s Park before strolling through the leafy shade of the Mardyke. It also meanders along Slí Cumman na mBan, which showcases the wildlife and natural splendour of the River Lee and the breadth of biodiversity still present in the heart of City. Continuity and renewal are interwoven in the life of a City. We hope that this walk will contribute to the understanding of these processes in the life of this City.
St Fin Barre’s Bridge ............... F3 St Fin Barre’s Cathedral ............ F4 St Francis’ Church ................... G2 St Patrick’s Street .................. H2 St Vincent’s Bridge .................. G1 Sundays Well Boating & Tennis Club .......................... B3 Sunday’s Well Road ................. B1 The English Market ................... H2 Tourist Information Office ........ H2 Tuckey Street .......................... H3 University College Cork .......... C4 Wandesford Quay .................... F3 Washington Street .................. G2 Western Road ......................... C3 Wood Street ........................... E2
Information Panels 1
Daunt’s Square ................... H2 Christchurch ...................... G2 Cork Courthouse ................ G2 Lancaster Quay / Western Road .. D3 University College Cork (UCC) .. C3 University College Cork (UCC) Campus .............................. C4 Cork County Gaol ............... B4 Fitzgerald’s Park ................ A3 Mardyke Walk ..................... C3 Slí Cumann Na mBan ........... E2 Grattan Street ..................... F1
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Park opening hours: Nov-Feb ................... 8.30am-5pm Mar & Oct ............... 8.30am -6pm April & Sept ............... 8.30am -8pm May & Aug ............... 8.30am-9pm Jun & Jul .................. 8.30am-10pm
www.corkcity.ie
UNIVERSITY WALK
Bank Holidays ...... Open at 10.00am Sundays .............. Open at 10.00am
A self-guided walking tour of the University area of Cork City.
This project demonstrates the Government’s support for cycling and walking as the most sustainable ways to travel.
For more information please contact Cork City Council Transportation Division T: 021 492 4452 email: traffic@corkcity.ie
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CW-U-EN-02-13
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